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Hi all,
Please let me know if im being a noob, but when I push on the pedal it feels like the crank is taking
Slack by about 5mm give or take.
Its really annoying when im going up hill jumping on the pedal in a high gear and my knees are jolting.
could anybody tell me what this is and how i can fix it, and obviously if its going to cost money.
Cheers guys and gals

Don't take this as gosspal but i think there would be a problem with the rear hub. The crank sits in the bottom bracket which is just a bearing, the hub has a rachet in it to allow free spining of the wheel when you are not peddleing and drive when you pedel. Not sure what you would have to do to fix it though

Could be either the freewheel on the rear hub going (about £10 to replace) or your cranks weren't fitted properly/tight enough/over tight and the bottom bracket/crank axle splines have rounded off. This is unlikely though as each time you experienced the problem your notice the crank arms not lining up opposite each other!
The fix the freewheel your self you'll need a freewheel removal tool (few quid), large adjustable spanner/bench vice, chain whip and a 10mm (I think from memory) allen key. Fairly easy to sort.

As the other guys have said most likely the rear hub ratchet/ free wheel, if you specify which hub you have I could give you a list of things to check and cross of to properly identifie the fault

Take it down to the hub and spoke shop in Bush Fair Harlow they will take a look and adjust or repair it for a lot cheaper than any bike shop. They are open from 10am till 4 today (Saturday)

Square taper cranks or spline?
Either way, dont take it to a shop till youve checked the crank bolts.

If you take it to Hub and Spoke they wont charge you to tighten a crank bolt. Because they are a community project all the work is done for no profit, and you have the choice to use the tools and do it yourself. You may be asked to make a small donation as they do need to pay rent etc. on the shop.

How cool

Do you mean the cranks rotate a few mm before you can feel that you're really powering the bike along? I'm not sure that is a fault. You always have to put tension back in the chain, and the hub needs to engage before power can be transmitted. Standard hubs have 16 (I think) engagement points so the cranks will rotate a little bit before the next one catches. More expensive hubs have more engagement points so the drive is more instant when you pedal.

Do apologize,
it is in fact the rear hub not the crank, it is rotating 10mm roughly before movement of the wheel happens whats the best option for this now you know what the real problem is, ha ha.
Thanks all those who have given input.

New freehub

Depends on the hub, but you can repair pretty cheaply. My Hope Pro 2 starting doing this (on the South Downs way... major annoyance !)
It has 4 Pawls and Springs inside, when i stripped it down i found that all but 1 of them had worn and broken the spring..... Replaced them and it was like new again

This is what i needed: http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=18780

Should be able ot get a kit for yours.

As I said earlier tell us the make and model if the hub and then I could give a break down of what you need to do

Voodoo bantu

Ok so assuming you have this hub: http://www.formulahubs.com/en/formula/? ... ail&aid=47 then you will just need to remove the cassette and freehub and replace the freehub. Should be no more than £20.